California Dreaming
Bigger isn’t always necessarily better, thinks our wine expert Chris Losh
Scan any wine selection in your local supermarket and you will see the word ‘California’ emblazoned on the majority of the labels. The state is one of the biggest importers to the UK, but this is definitely a case where quantity does not equal quality.
Much of it is pretty unappealing. In fact, one of the main exports, White Zinfandel, is the vinous equivalent of elevator music. It kind of washes over you without making any real impression; not great for a wine that will set you back on average around £8 a bottle.
The trouble with California is that the cheaper stuff – and that includes the ones with the £8 price tag – tends to come from the hot central valley. It’s very easy to ripen grapes here; it’s just that they don’t make particularly good wine.
But all is not lost. A quick hop, skip and jump can take you into areas that produce really good stuff. Look to the Napa Valley, Carneros and Mendocino and you’ll find Cabernets Sauvignons, Zinfandels and Chardonnays with real New World swagger. Try Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel as a companion for a hearty pot roast, or Napa Valley Fumé Blanc with grilled halibut.
