A breath of fresh air in the Dolomites

Snaking your way up from Verona towards the Alps, the Italian scenery of terraced vineyards and terracotta houses soon starts to give way to something less familiar; a  dramatic landscape of rolling hills, thick forests and waterfalls. As you reach the Dolomites, the Mediterranean world seems far behind, you’re firmly in the world of Heidi and Hansel and Gretel and the chocolate box.

The south Tyrol area is mainly German-speaking, but we are visiting a tiny area, consisting of five picturesque valleys, where the first language is neither Italian nor German – but Ladin.

The Ladin people – these valleys have a population of just 30,000 – retain their separate identity, despite a turbulent and fluctuating history. The identity is preserved within Ladin TV and radio programmes as well as within the valleys’ distinctive cuisine and even dress – our hostess greets us, wearing a milkmaid-style dress it is hard to imagine seeing anywhere near Milan or Rome. The wooden huts on the hillsides are legally protected – there will be no more building or demolition here.

There are five Ladin valleys: Alta Badia, Val di Fassa, Livinallongo, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Val Gardena, at the heart of which is the town of Selva. At 1563 metres above sea level and with a population of 2600, Selva is the largest town in Val Gardena. In the winter it is a buzzing ski resort, but during the summer the atmosphere is more relaxed – from the Hotel Aaritz the view is picture perfect; its green slopes undisturbed.

One of the best places to view Val Gardena is from the gardens of the Adler spa in the neighbouring town of Ortisei. The heated outdoor swimming pool and glass-fronted, panoramic sauna are open into the evening, even in winter, and on a crisp dark night it looks beautiful as steam wafts from the water into the surrounding valley, dotted with twinkling chalets.

As well as spas and saunas, après-hike/ski activity in the Dolomites may also include the area’s famous hay bath. This was invented by farm workers, who found themselves refreshed by sleeping under damp hay. We tried it: covered in warm damp hay, we were wrapped up in waterproof blankets and lowered into a water bath for 20 minutes. I did feel more relaxed afterwards, but maybe I was just relieved to get out of the itchy hay.

Ladin food involves thick barley soups, polenta and speck (ham). For a chance to taste the local produce while drinking in the breathtaking landscapes, the Alpe Mastle Walk cannot be bettered. After a cable-car ride from Selva over velvety slopes, the trail takes you past three mountain-hut stops. The first is an idyllic collection of wooden chalets, where a local cheese producer makes fresh butter and strong cheeses, delicious with crispy, spiced Schuttelbrot (flat bread) and an ice-cold beer. The next stops on the six-hour round hike introduce you to the area’s famous Knodel (dumplings) and fresh sour yogurt.

The views on the trail are the stuff of fairy tales; there’s even a turreted castle inhabited by a genuine count.

The neighbouring valley of Alta Badia offers a similar experience. The Peaks of Gastronomy tour is a series of guided treks which involve breaking for lunch in a mountain hut – with a meal designed by one of the area’s three Michelin-star chefs.
For a more adventurous climb, drive the 20 minutes from Selva to Ortisei’s funicular railway. This takes you to the base of Resciesa Alp, popular for its fantastic panoramic views. Resciesa Alp is surrounded by the three peaks of Sassolungo, the flat table-like Sella Massif group and the spiky Odle mountain group. All of these peaks reach to over 3000ft – and the views are breathtaking.

Alta Badia is a favoured ski resort of George Clooney and Tom Cruise; the villages of Corvara, La Villa, San Cassiano, Badia, La Valle and Colfosco make great bases for mountain-walking holidays. Alta Badia also boasts the world’s largest ski network, connected by a single lift pass.

From Badia, a relaxing way to spend an afternoon is to take the chair lift to the Church of the Holy Cross, 2000m up at the base of Kreuzkogel Massif. From here, you get a close-up view of the characteristic carbonate formations which make up the Dolomite Mountains, named after the French geologist Dolomieu, who first described this kind of rock. The adjacent restaurant serves simple local fare and some of the most eye-watering grappa around.

But for a truly traditional Ladin experience, visit the Maso Runch-Hof in Badia, a picturesque farmhouse perched on the hillside. Waitresses in gingham dresses serve you an eight-course Ladin feast, stretching from Panicia (barley soup) through a variety of Turtres (crispy pancakes), Cajinci (filled baked dough) and ravioli to a great Stinco (roast pig) with sauerkraut.

Sitting in low-beamed rooms decorated with old farming equipment, you feel transported back in time.

Photography shot for CSMA Club magazine by Pete Webb